
For the longest time I have wanted to make a Japanese Hakama properly. I made one once before but I can't say that it was exactly accurate, considering I just kinda bought a whole lot of red fabric and made giant pleated pants. A friend of my has a birthday coming up and he is (literaly) my resident ninja, having spent years studying a form of Ninjitsu. So, what an excellent excuse to make him some Samurai inspired garb and whet my appetite to make Japanese clothes.
The first thing I needed to do is draft a pattern for the pants. I found this image a while back during one of my many long sessions online looking at Japanese traditional clothes. This one I found on sarcasm_hime.net Yes I am that kind of geek.
For the most part, Japanese clothing is made by piecing together long rectangles that create the sleek shapes we're so used to. This is evident by the way their fabric is made and dyed in long bolts usually 14-18" wide. Keeping that in mind, I didn't think that the flouted pant-legs in the pattern construction I found was necessary, so when I started making measurements and doing math, I decided I didn't want to make them taper out much from the hip.
Hakama are more than just baggy pants with some pleats. The pleats actually have a meaning,
seven total to represent each of the seven tenants of bushido. There should be five in the front and two in the back. In addition to representing the tenants, the extra baggyness of the pants is used to hide their movements during combat so their opponents cannot predict their next move. There is no need to make the pants any larger than necessary to include the pleats. I figure about three inches between each pleat, which adds quite a bit of fabric to each side, making them baggy enough.